Luxurious Dining & Decor at Lucier

At the south end of Riverplace along the Willamette, beside the new Strand Standard condos, sits the new Lucier restaurant, a very high-end dining establishment with a sizable investment in its architecture and interiors. I visited Lucier last week as part of a press lunch. Hopefully it won't seem like I'm writing this post in exchange for the complimentary striped bass carpaccio with slivered foie gras, which was one of about ten different small plates we had over a four hour meal.

(I particularly recommend the delicious Michima Ranch Ribeye and the Spring Pea Risotto, but maybe that's me. The chef has an obsession, by the way, with micro greens and veggies. Gordon Ramsay would say that's very 1990s.)

The exterior, like the Strand condos, is designed by Ankrom Moisan Associated Architects. It's got floor to ceiling glass and a slanted flat roof that makes it feel a bit like a ship. The back portion also has a wood-paneled curvy cube. The restaurant's 7,600 square foot interior was designed by New York firm Alvarez + Brock, which also designed Le Cirque. The press release has this to say about their design:

"One-of-a-kind features within Lucier include a marble wall milled with abstract swimming designs, a shimmering indoor canal lined with iridescent gold tiles, oversized chandeliers made from bronze tubes of varying heights, hand blown glass sculptures by local artists and a diamond-faceted metal dome meant to replicate the peaks of Mount Hood."

Being inside, I marveled at the beauty of the materials and design, especially the hanging chandeliers made from hundreds of individually hanging tubes that undulate gently. There's even a small waterway that meanders like a creek through the restaurant floor. And that gold dome is something else too, although it separates the bartender from bar patrons, which seems like an unwise move. Still, virtually every surface in this place is made of a luxurious material. It's very impressive, although some might say it also borders on the ridiculous. Will Oregonians go for it?

Obviously Portland like any big city has some affluent types who will flock here, as will others for their prom night or once-a-year birthday dinner at a destination restaurant. It's not Lucier's responsibility to craft their own demographic, of course. It'll be interesting to see how such a fancy place fares, but you've got to admit there aren't many riverfront restaurants except for a satellite of the Newport Bay chain plopped on the water a few feet away from Lucier. Call me crazy, but I don't think of these two as direct competitors.

Although this is possibly the swankiest restaurant I've ever been inside (at least in Portland), I found it curious to know that the proprietor, Chris Dussin, got his start founding the Old Spaghetti Factory and later Fenouil in the Pearl District, while his grandfather started that downtown hipster-stronghold of a watering hole, the Virginia Cafe. Lucier is of course most like Fenouil, both of which have a bit of a corporate feel despite the luxury.

Visiting Lucier (which is named for Etienne Lucier, the man who started Oregon's first independent farm), one also is inspired to ponder what the other most impressive restaurant interiors in Portland may be. We're certainly not the kings of high style with a culture that favors Birkenstocks and shorts, and many of the best restaurants here keep their style unpretentious. That's even more so now with the current generation of fine dining establishments, where often there cement floors to go with your Kobe beef. The first place that comes to mind as an impressive, luxurious restaurant space, though, is definitely the Allied Works-designed Bluehour. What other ones am I forgetting?

Comments

[John]

I thought those condos were named "the Strand" not the "standard"

[BrianLibby]

Oops! I've now corrected the Freudian slip.

[john]

That place is beautiful; and even non-diners may enjoy it. Luxury, Oregon-style.

[kitty]

The Driftwood, OK, it is not a real restaurant, but it is part of Gracie's. What a lounge should be.

[Charles]

I feel like something is lost in the question of what are other impressive and luxurious restaurants in town. I get more excited by the question of what restaurants have some of the most beautiful designs. I'm personally more moved by great design that is not on a massive/corporate budget. For example. Sel Gris is great example of simple yet elegant and even industrial design that feels intimate and convivial and honors the food and aspirations of the place. Lauro to me would be another (SE and my neighborhood) example. There are times we have gone there for the warmth and feel of the place as much as the food. They have managed scale and color and textures and great gathering place vibe all in one sweet space. We are fortunate to have an abundance of creative restaurant spaces and I really appreciate the ones I want to go back to as much for the feel of the space as the quality of the food.

[kalliope]

A beautiful waterfront restaurant has been missing in Portland, in fact any waterfront restaurant has been missing in Portland. I had the pleasure of dining there, and the food was really fantastic. Prepared in a style that tends towards the simplicity of Italian, but with a certain French flare. But not over "ingrediented" like most French places here in Portland. The place itself is pretty spectacular, and I like the juxtaposition of simple Portland with amazing environment. Bottom line, the food and service was excellent, and that is what will ultimately keep this place going. I will be curious to see how the interior "ages", at the moment - SPECTACULAR.

[anon]

wow, there's a place in portland that serves foie gras? i wouldn't think the animal rights groups here would stand for that.

[ben]

lots of places serve it:

http://www.portlandmercury.com/portland/Content?oid=780764&category=22214

if eating foie gras is bad, i don't want to be good.

[Eliza]

The building is beautiful, and I've heard good things about the staff. All in all, I get a great feeling about this restaurant and where it could go.

[Brad Davis]

I have dined twice here. Once with a corporate account and for a family special occasion. I am sorry to say that this establishemnt wont make it here in Portland. First, it is the most expensive dining in the city with the exception of maybe Morton's or expense account night on the town at the Heathman. The current state of the economy and the number of patrons who will frequent this place is very limited, give the cusine and exotic wine list.The one thought that come to mind is the owners who conceived the establishment had "more money than brains". A beautiful interior yes, but over the top and more suitable for Vegas, NYC or La La Land where celebrity posers, highrollers and captains of industry hang out and try to outspend each other. Sorry, but I give it no more than a year or two, or until the owners cash runs out, whatever comes first!

[james]

Don't you get tired of the self righteous hate. These is no reason to hate on those that 1. had enough success to have the opportunity to find enjoyment in certain things offered in nice establishments for premium prices. 2. Decided to enjoy what ever in the hell they would like without being called celebrity posers, highrollers, etc.. How about hard working people who choose to enjoy life and not have poopy pants all the time.