First of all, my apologies for not writing a blog entry for a week. As I alluded in my last post, I was in Japan for 10 days and meant to post more from there. But an exceptionally hectic schedule made that tougher than expected.
The first few days of my trip were spent in Kyoto at the 2nd International Conference for Universal Design. At this point you’re probably asking, what the hell is universal design? According to Wikipedia, it’s “an approach to the design of products, services and environments to be as usable as possible by as many people as possible regardless of age, ability or situation. It links directly to the political concept of an inclusive society and its importance has been recognized by goverments, business and industry.” The conference center itself was also really interesting: a kind of 1970s modern interpretation of classical Japanese architecture.
One thing I was reminded of in Kyoto is that throughout the world, be it rich industrialized nations like the US and Japan or developing countries in Africa or Asia, the world’s population is aging very rapidly. Whether it’s can openers or urban mass transit systems, we have to design and build a society where they and the disabled can operate easily. It’s easy to be dismissive of this notion—a few more curb cuts and we’re all set, right? But there’s an underlying nobility to universal design: the idea that if it doesn’t work for the largest number of people, it isn’t good design.
Kyoto is also fascinating to visit because it’s the one major Japanese city that wasn’t completely leveled during World War II. Thus, you can find authentically ancient architecture that only exists in replica-form in other parts of Japan. One afternoon I ducked out of the conference with my photographer colleague and we visited the Heian Shrine, with its massive scale, exquisite detail and spiritual resonance fostering an unforgettable experience. There’s nothing in Portland to compare it to, but it reinforced in my mind the importance of preserving our most significant historic architecture. Nearly 5,000 miles away from Portland, I thought once again of the ill-fated Rosefriend Apartments set to be demolished to make way for the Ladd Tower. And then I suddenly craved a Sopporo beer.
Of course Japan also has a superlative system of trains, from the speeding Shinkanzen bullet train to local subways. I thought of MAX and the streetcar and Portland and thought, ‘Great—now let’s quintuple it!’ Oh, and while it’s admittedly a pipe dream, I’d sure love it if Amtrak could be transformed to provide high speed rail transportation. It’s so much more civilized than flying.
After the conference we headed to Tokyo, where I met with two Portland companies: Wieden + Kennedy advertising and Ziba Design. (Many thanks to W+K's John C. Jay and everyone in the Tokyo office, as well as Ziba's Jeremy Kaye and Abby Margolis.) Both companies are examples of the ever-burgeoning ties between Portland and its neighbors in Asia and the rest of the Pacific Rim. The focus in both meetings, more or less, was retail design. We visited the Omotesando shopping district and the youth-oriented areas of Hibiya and Roppongi, where there was an incredible array of shops like Bathing Ape and Original Fake that provide energizing designs that, more so than in the United States, are born from the identity of the brand and product. In a Levi jeans store in Omotesando, for example, the whole place was festooned in oversized rivets from the jeans themselves. At the Bathing Ape boutique, designer Masamichi Katayama of Wonderwall has created a glass-enclosed moving track to display the company’s high-fashion sneakers.
Visiting Tokyo for the second time, I was reminded that it is by far the most dazzling, high-energy city I’ve ever been to. There are numerous neighborhoods with enough flashing neon to make Times Square look like Gresham. Even so, Tokyo is also clean, safe and exceptionally well organized. Some of that is the Japanese national character. My colleague Michael pointed out that even the homeless people in Tokyo kept their little niches of cardboard and cans incredibly well ordered.
Driving by downtown Portland yesterday on the way home from the airport, the city looked absolutely tiny. But it also looked good. As much as Portland is correct to pursue a higher-density future, we are incredibly fortunate to have such a generous amount of space. Looking into my Southeast Portland neighborhood as I write this, it feels astonishing to see no one out on the sidewalks – and after being in a throng of thousands on every block the last ten days, I gots no problem with that. Even though it’s stating the obvious, I also have to say that one can’t consider the city of Portland without the context of its surrounding natural landscape. That one can drive an hour or two from our city and find snow-capped mountains, massive river valleys, pristine beaches and fertile farmland is all the more amazing. And yet at the same time, I don’t mean to paint Portland as some backwater burg. Show the Japanese buildings like the W+K headquarters and the Belmont Lofts or public spaces like Pioneer Courthouse Square or Tanner Springs Park, and they’ll come away impressed. Same goes for our commitment to green building, seen in structures like the new OHSU Center for Health and Healing in South Waterfront. And they’ll also come and see for themselves. While in Kyoto on a popular little street of restaurants and bars called the Poncho-Ko, I met a Japanese businessman who was flying to Portland today to meet with executives from Intel. And he’s just one of many.
So it’s nice to be back. Anyone care to fill me in on what I missed?
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