The other day I found myself driving from North Greeley to my home in Southeast Portland in what felt like a cinematic tour of riverfront Portland. The sun was shining but the clouds were dark, one of those incredibly theatrical weather systems you'll only find here. I could almost hear dramatic soundtrack music roaring in accompaniment (oh wait, that was my car stereo).
First came departure from the Adidas Village, a uniquely vibrant and urban corporate headquarters. There are no security gates turning away through traffic, no bland cookie cutter office park architecture. Full of color and geometry and life, this North American headquarters for Adidas, designed a couple years ago by BOORA (specifically Eric Cugnart, who has since moved on to Mulvanny G2, where he’ll presumably be involved with Burnside Bridgehead) is a gem.
Next, Greeley wound down along a wide breadth of rail yards in the shadow of the Freemont Bridge, with the West Hills, River District and downtown looming in the background. Portland has traditionally occupied much of its riverfront with industry: ports, ships, railroads. While it makes tremendous sense to devote more of that prime riverside land to higher-density and more public uses, I believe the overall urban landscape is nicely balanced by a dose of grit. In decades past Portland had more of what I call a hallowed seediness: the dirt under our city’s fingernails as a badge of honor. I’d hate to see that ever disappear completely.
Greeley then continued toward what has become a delightful pocket of bars and restaurants on lower North Williams Avenue. A cluster of historic old buildings such as the White Eagle, a historic and reportedly haunted former whorehouse renovated by the McMenamins brothers, gives this area real character. But I’ve also long been impressed with the newer Widmer brewery here, designed by talented local sole practitioner Mark Garvey.
The journey then continued toward the Rose Quarter, which includes one of my favorite Portland buildings: Memorial Coliseum. I have a big coffee table book at home of classic architectural photos by the great Julius Shulman, and the Coliseum is the only Portland building included. This is one of at least two landmark Portland buildings by the iconic national firm Skidmore, Owings, Merrill (the other being ‘Big Pink’, the US Bancorp Tower). I realize the Rose Quarter area would be better off with just one huge arena instead of two, but I will definitely mourn if Memorial Coliseum is ever torn down. Besides, it’s sacred ground—the Trail Blazers won a world championship here.
While waiting through an inevitable long light at the Rose Quarter, I of course had the same thought so many others do here: It’s a shame that one of our most important local transit hubs is such a mess. Not only is it not a place you’d ever want to hang out, with no businesses that can survive when the Blazers aren’t playing, but it’s a tremendously difficult place to negotiate as a pedestrian. How many people miss busses here that they can see across the intersection but can’t get to in time?
Next I headed toward Martin Luther King Boulevard, where a red light brought the car to a stop just outside what will someday be the Burnside Bridgehead development. How strange it is that we still don’t know exactly who will be developing what buildings there. And hopefully the surrounding blocks will ultimately evolve into more than car dealerships and cheap furniture outlets.
Continuing down MLK, I was reminded of a conversation with someone at the Portland Development Commission a few years ago about the Central Eastside, and how ultimately we should expect to see a lot more high-density housing along MLK and Grand. For all the attention we’ve paid to Burnside Bridgehead, you’d think there would be more activity on this front. Instead of at the Bridgehead, how about somewhere along MLK for Beam Development's pioneering live-work housing for the creative class?
Finally, crossing 7th and 12th Avenues toward home, I thought about different suggestions for moving I-5 away from the river, possibly toward a tunnel occupying one of these streets. What a great thing for Portland this would be, freeing the East Bank of the Willamette from the yoke of that that mammoth freeway. And yet what a drag such a big tunnel construction project would be for these neighborhoods. But that’s the price of progress, right?
I guess it wasn’t really a quintessential Portland excursion since I was in my car instead of on a bike or a bus. But regardless of how one does it, it’s fun to think of Portland architecture not as just a series of buildings and roads, but a unified whole that is - be it thankfully or regretfully - constantly changing.
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